Huangshan(黃山), The Yellow Mountain : The Mountain that Scrapes the Sky

Trail Map

huangshan elevation chart
Cloud drifts below a jagged mountainscape

If you've come here from YouTube, welcome! The report below is from a previous visit to Huangshan without Ella. Directions and map are down below.

Huangshan started with a bus ride. Sleepy tourists sat in silence, too tired to wipe back the layer of condensation building on the windows and sneak a peak at the waking Yellow Mountain. It felt as if we were wrapped in a steamy cocoon, waiting for rebirth. As the vehicle creaked to a halt and the door slammed open, the crowd was indeed reborn. Tourists rushed from their seats, whooping and exclaiming in wonder at the outside world. The ropeway to Huangshan elevated us to a whole new level of awe. Before us lay the famed sea of clouds, bathed in the most exquisite yellow-golden light. It was the perfect morning. We glided above a valley of deep icy shade. A colourless valley, where the snow had been perfectly preserved and was yet to melt. Streaks of white and black ran down the slopes. It was a mad, abstract riot of shapes and lines.

Three images: Monkeys on Huangshan, a temple bequeathed in light, a jagged valleyscape

I was in such a rush to capture the moment on camera that I sprinted off, directionless, in search of a photo composition. Although in a state of franticity, I felt wholly at peace, calmed by the oozing serenity of the mountain. I flew past a porter and her load. I shot past another mountain worker who was sitting and admiring the view. He looked like he'd just stumbled upon enlightenment. I discovered icy steps leading down for what looked like forever and almost bumped headlong into another photographer setting up a tripod. There was so much to explore. The vertical rock formations gave the impression that, like a tree, the mountain was slowly growing upwards.

As I continued to discover I felt a sense of unity and collectiveness between the peaks. They were similar yet wholly different, like two strangers who, at a glance, are clearly brothers, despite their differences. Perhaps this feeling was heightened by the interlinking stone steps. Despite the immense sprawling nature of Huangshan, the steps lay ever underfoot, connecting all in a labyrinth of wonder.

The view up from Yuping ropeway

As the day wore on, I became numb to the staggering beauty. It wasn't that I could not appreciate it, more that I had succumbed to a hypnotic trance induced by Huangshan. My feet carried me effortlessly forward like I was riding the crest of a wave. Looking back now I find it difficult to separate the individual viewpoints in my mind. However, the one view viewpoint which stood out the most for me was beginning-to-believe-peak. On the left, a cluster of spires stretched to scrape the sky. To the right, a vertiginous chasm. Other highlights included a peak swimming in cloud, a cave with human-sized icicles and an encounter with wild monkeys.

The sun rises over snow-topped peaks and the sea of clouds near Bright Peak

I'm nowhere near done with this mountain. I intend to one day return and search out each and every one of Huangshan's secrets. Such is the lure of Huangshan: once is never enough.

        Words & Photography: Scott Norris (@radventuresofficial) // spring 2016