Waterfalls are not all that Wales' Waterfall Country has to offer. We tiptoed into the darkness of Porth yr Ogof cave's snarling mouth. The black swallowed. In the blind, other senses heightened. The rushing cave water resonated around the echo chamber. Creeping into the abyss, the cacophony grew with each probing step. It necessitated care. The water beckoned like a siren's call, ushering us deeper into the mysterious unknown. It was only when we stood at the water's edge, eardrums bursting with the mad sound, that we paused, disorientated by the noise. It is everywhere. As if we stood on an isolated platform ringed on all sides by gigantic waterfalls of unfathomable depth. We made our retreat.
The forest outside the cave is moss-adorned and cosy. Little birds with blue cowls and orange laces flit about merrily. The path follows the river Mellte as it falls. Each waterfall is unique and elegant in its own way. Long and arching or great and tumbling. One, you may explore behind and another aches under the weight of an entire tree trunk wrought across its side. Occasionally, we spied mountaintops through leaves.
The final stretch of the Four Falls walk sees you rising above the treetops for a glimpse of the world outside the waterfalls. It's easy to forget that world exists at all as you sit, listening to the rushing water.
Words & Photography: Scott Norris (@_scott_norris) // summer 2017
From the north side of the car park take the West hand track down towards the river which accomdates the Four Falls and cave (Porth yr Ogof).
Across the road, take the left track.
Head straight on the track. Go straight at the crossroads with the bridge (don't cross the bridge).
Head right at the sign for sync cym gywn and follow the path down to the waterfall (Sgwd Clun-Gwyn).
Follow the cliffside track South. At the signposted fork take the right hand path. In bad conditions it might be advisable to take the signposted diversion on the left.
At the second waterfall (Lower Fall of the White Meadow) descend downwards still keeping the river on your right.
Follow the wooden plankways to waterfall three (Fall of the Fuller).
From the waterfall's edge head back to the wooden trail marker and head right up the steps.
Follow the track into the signpost for the fourth waterfall (Sgwd Yr Eira) and an information board. Take the right down the steps.
Return up the steps after viewing the falls and take a right once back at the top.
Left at the next signpost.
Straight on at the crossroads (if too muddy take a left at the crossroads and retrace your steps to the car park).
Keep straight, pass the house. At the T junction turn left and then right into the car park.